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My fingers trembled against the cracked screen as Manuel’s labored breaths cut through the thin Andean air. Blood seeped through the makeshift bandage on his calf where the loose shale had sliced deep. "¿Dónde está el médico más cercano?" I pleaded in Spanish, but his eyes only reflected the same terror I felt – he spoke Quechua, the ancient tongue of these mountains. My useless phrasebook fluttered from numb hands into the ravine. Then I remembered the neon-green icon buried beneath hiking apps

My hiking boots sank into the dusty trail as the Spanish sun beat down, turning the olive groves into shimmering mirages. Somewhere between Seville and Granada, I'd taken a "shortcut" that stranded me in a whitewashed village where even the stray dogs seemed to speak in rapid-fire Andalusian dialects. Sweat stung my eyes as I approached a weathered abuelo repairing a donkey cart, my phrasebook's formal Castilian sounding like Shakespearean English to his ears. His wrinkled face contorted in poli

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