Rodrigo Santos de Souza 2025-11-09T05:30:58Z

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Rain lashed against the bus window as we crawled up the serpentine mountain road, each turn revealing more terraced olive groves vanishing into grey mist. My fingers trembled against the crumpled reservation slip – a two-week artist residency at Cortijo Verde, a 17th-century farmhouse supposedly run by a fiery abuela who spoke no English. "Basic Spanish is enough," the program coordinator had assured me. But when the ancient Mercedes finally coughed me onto the muddy courtyard, Abuela Rosa's rap

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