baltic sailing 2025-09-12T13:43:17Z

Rain needled my face like cold daggers as our sailboat heeled violently in the Øresund Strait. Below deck, Anna white-knuckled the galley table, our picnic basket upended in a grotesque salad massacre across the floorboards. I squinted through salt-crusted lashes at the disintegrating paper chart - my grandfather's 1972 Baltic Sea diagrams were bleeding ink into oblivion. Currents bullied us toward jagged silhouettes emerging through fog. That familiar cocktail of shame and terror rose in my thr